Step 1: Assembling and primming.
First of all I based the ship (see "Ship basing tutorial" in this month of the blog) and primed it with a brush, but it is possible to prime it with a spray. The base was also primed. The Anvils have a turret that I did not decide to glue becuause it will prevent me for painting the deck and the front side of bridge of the ship, so the turrets will be painted separately and later glued. If your model has parts that will make diffficult to paint the main body is preferable to paint them separately before assembling.
Step 2: Basic colours.
The basic colours of the hull and cannons are added to the ship. Also small details are painted because when I dip the model in the next step those details will be remarked. I re-check the ships to see there aren´t any colours that run into zones painted in another colour, and correct the mistakes before proceeding to step 3.
Step 3: Selective Dipping
It is called "Dipping" because the original procedure for it was to dip the model into the quickshade can then swing it until the shading stuff is gone from the outer zones of the model, but, because I do not have a place to swing the ships (no garden) and the ships are too big for that (and swinging could damage the base) I used a brush, to selectively paint the zone where the shanding liquied will be required, in this case the decks of the ship and lower hull (wich is "made" of wood planks) Then I use anothe brush to remove the excess of shading stuff from teh zones. I do not cover the pannels in the upper hull because it will then require to paint each pannel separately and will consume a lot of time that is why I call it "selective" (the panel will go darker). The metallic details (except guns) are covere with the shader to remark the details and separate it from the hull.
The dipping or Shading process requires at least 3 days of drying then you can continue painting the model. The details of the lower hull should be perfectly remarked. At this step also add a black wash to the funnels of the ship.
Step 4: Panelling, part 1
In this step I paint the upper hull (the blue part). first covering the remains of the shading stuff that ran into the blue zone and then paintig the lines separating the pannels with a fine brush. I try to paint a white line thick enough to reach the two adjoining pannels using a brighter colour used to paint the hull. I also add lights to the edges of the blue zones of the ship.
Step 5: Panelling, part 2
I use even a finer bursh to paint a black line inside the white (or brighter) line that separate the pannels of the upper hull of the ship. The effect is a upper hull "made" of independent pannels. Sometimes I have to repaint one or"thin" a line with the hull colour. Some othe details are added like lights and shades to the metallic parts, like the ram.
Step 6: painting the base, part 1
I forgot to mention I paint the edge of the base in black using as less water in the paint as possible to protect the base from bending this can be done as early as step 2. Then, in this step I properly paint the base with a "base" colour of navy blue, covering the edges of the base, but you can leave them black. At this stage I also glue the turrets to the ships, as the zone they block for painting is already painted. It is possible to magnetize the turrets, but in my opinion the Anvil's turret is quite small for doing that.
Step 7: painting the base, part 2
Then I mix white with blue in a 3 parts of white , 1 of blue to paint the "waves" in the base, starting with the ones at the aft and the prow of the ships then I add more waves in the middle zone trying to paint them as symetrical as possible.
Step 8: painting the base, part 3
Finally I add the white colour to the waves, on top of them, painting half in white along the line of the wave, except in the prow, that is painted to look as realistic as possible, painting the upper zone of the wave and leaving the lower zone of the wave in light blue. In case of the Aft waves, I add a wash of dark blue to separate the lines of the trailing waves first. Within the prow area I also add a little more lines to make the ship look "cutting" the waves.
Step 9: painting the base, part 4
Thinning. In this last step, I thin the lines representing the waves with navy blue to give the model a smoother look. Sometimes this may make the wave to be smaller but its OK as long as you keep them symetrical with the other side of the base. It is possible to drybrush some of the base to give more "texture" to it, but the models are just finished and I barnished them with a coat of matt varnish. except in the metallic zones where i mix gloss with matt varnish (50%) to make them look metallical and not just a tone of grey.
And that is all!!
I hope you liked the tutorial :-)
Dan
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